The city
Bukhara is less spectacular than Samarkand and more lovable: a dense old town of trading domes, courtyards and mosques where people still live and work.
Two days. One for Kalon, the Ark and Lyabi-Hauz; a second for the trading domes, Chor Minor and a hammam if you fancy one. Bukhara rewards wandering more than ticking boxes.
Afrosiyob trains connect Bukhara with Samarkand and Tashkent. The old town is compact and walkable; the airport (BHK) is a short drive away. For Khiva, the road runs west across the desert — allow most of a day, or fly to Urgench.
Bukhara is the hottest of the classic cities in summer — July highs average about 37 °C. Dress modestly at mosques and madrasahs. Bargain in the bazaars, and confirm taxi fares before setting off.
Photo: Kalon Mosque, Bukhara — Wikimedia Commons, CC0, photo by Bernard Gagnon.